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Finally figured out a cheap fix for my rusty patio chairs

I spent two summers annoyed at the rust spots on my metal chairs. Tried wire brushing and repainting but the rust always came back. Then a neighbor told me to use a rust converter gel before painting, cost me $12 at the hardware store, and it's been 6 months without a spot showing up. Anyone else have luck with those converters?
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3 Comments
mary_martin22
The rust converter only works if you get all the loose rust off first, otherwise it'll just seal the flaky stuff under the paint. Maybe try a stiff wire brush attachment on a drill before your next coat.
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keithbutler
Yeah but heres the thing nobody mentions - even after you wire brush it, you gotta hit it with a metal prep or phosphoric acid wash first. Trust me, I learned this the hard way on a trailer I fixed up last summer. @mary_martin22 is right about getting the loose stuff off, but theres usually still a thin layer of rust in the pits and crevices that the converter just cant reach. That surface rust will eat right through your paint in six months even if you sealed it. I've had way better luck using a rust converter that lets you see it working (like a clear one) so you know you got it all. Just my two cents from too many failed projects.
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gibson.sarah
Have you ever tried using a rust converter that turns the rust black as it works? That helped me see exactly where I missed spots. I agree with @mary_martin22 that you have to get the loose stuff off first, but even then I still had trouble with paint peeling later. What really made the difference for me was applying two thin coats of converter instead of one thick one, letting each dry fully before moving on. It gives the acid more time to soak into those little pits and crevices Keith is talking about. I think a lot of people rush that part.
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