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Talking to an old mason about lime mortar made me change my whole mix

I was working on a repair job for a 1920s house in Cincinnati last week, and the homeowner had his grandfather, a retired mason, stop by. The old guy watched me mixing my standard bagged mortar and just shook his head. He said, 'Son, that wall breathes. You're sealing it in plastic.' He explained that for old brick, you need a softer, more breathable lime-based mix so moisture can escape, or you'll spall the face right off. I argued at first, but he walked me through a simple test with a vinegar drop to check for lime. Sure enough, the original mortar fizzed. I switched my mix for that job, adding NHL 3.5 lime, and the color and texture match was perfect. It hit different because I've been doing it the 'modern' way for ten years without thinking. How do you guys handle mortar specs on historic repairs?
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hunt.nora
hunt.nora18d ago
Read an article a while back about exactly this, how modern cement mortar is too hard for old soft brick. It traps moisture and then the brick itself cracks apart trying to freeze. That old mason was spot on. Saw pictures of a church in Boston where they used the wrong mix and the whole facade looked like it had acne from all the spalling. Makes you wonder how many "repairs" are actually causing more damage long term.
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stellachen
stellachen17d ago
Totally used to think stronger mortar was always better, like it was an upgrade. Then I saw a historic house near me where they repointed with modern mix. Within a few years, the bricks themselves started crumbling at the edges, not the mortar. It looked awful, like the building was rotting from the outside. Really makes you see how a "fix" can be the problem.
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the_julia
the_julia17d ago
Wasn't there a whole study on this from like, the National Park Service? They have these guidelines saying the mortar should always be softer than the brick or stone so it fails first. It's wild how using the "best" new stuff can just wreck a building.
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